This and That About Neckties

After describing his “Purple and Rose Thirties Era” tie in his January 7, 2007 entry, blogger Bill Stuivenga of Will’s Vintage Ties asked himself how he knew whether a tie was from the 30’s as opposed to the 40’s, answering that he didn’t really, relying on instinct and hints his ties had to offer over the years.

Ties, Books & Blogs

It is bit of detective work, my hoping the next tie I find in my travels,  whether it be in thrift stores, at auctions, on eBay, at estate sales and yard sales, and from donations from friends and family will provide some information which can then be pieced together to solve a puzzle.  I rely on the many period ties I have personally inspected, necktie blogs such as Burl Veneer’s Tie Blog, the KNOT: Kollectors of Nasty Old Ties blog, and Michael Seger’s Knot A Blog.  Coffee table picture books are invaluable.  Roseann Ettinger’s 20th Century Neckties Pre-1955 (ISBN  07643-0578-6) and Michael Jay Goldberg’s The Ties That Blind: Neckties 1945-1975 (ISBN 0-88740-982-2) have history and pages of photographs.  User name Galetime of eBay wrote a short guide called “Dating Vintage Neckties from the 30s thru the 60s”.

People Sharing Stories

It’s a great to be able talk with necktie owners who may recall when they acquired a particular tie and who may possibly remember at which occasions they wore them as well as be able to offer up a story, anecdote or photographs from personal family albums.  It is always sad when a family member passes away, but having access to the person’s necktie collection before it is dispersed can provide some insight.  Necktie enthusiasts and necktie designers may also have information to share which simply hasn’t been written down yet.

Looking at Labels

Labels often have information about the manufacturer, retailer, and fabric content.  The location of a label is important.  I can honestly say that the label of every 20’s and 30’s men’s tie I have ever handled or seen in a photograph is located at the very end of the back (thin) tip.  Sometimes a tie brandishes two labels, one from the manufacturer and the other from the retailer, such as in the photo to the right.  The manufacturer label is red and reads, “Cohama Gamester” while the retail label is just above and reads, “Fanham’s, Lothrops Farnham Co, Dover, N.H.” Brand new ties with the original wrapper still attached are a wonderful window into a period of history.  Will Stuivenga’s “Brand New Thirties Era” yellow patterned tie is brand new with a wrapper that lists the manufacturer name, fabric content and a retail ceiling price of $1.00.

I once owned this brand new (a.k.a. dead stock or new old stock) 30’s era plaid tie which had two original wrappers.  One wrapper read, “Cohama Tie – California Sun-Maker Colors – $1″ and the other read, “Made of 12% wool, 88% rayon – J.S. Temple Co”.  I’ve also included a photograph of the back of the two wrappers. The tiny red print on the bottom wrapper reads, “Printed in U.S.A.”

Other Places

Now that’s two ties from the same period each priced at one dollar.    The sleuth in me looks to compare that information with other sources, such as adverts. Advertisements in vintage magazines such as the Esquire and Harper’s Bazaar, provide full color snapshots of ties and list prices.

And don’t forget dry cleaning tags, which in themselves have evolved over the years.

Better yet, finding a necktie in a transitional state provides even more clues.

In Short:  Information Abounds Everywhere.

Will Stuivenga feels that 30’s ties are more conservative in appearance but no less elaborate.  He adds that 30’s ties are intricately designed, just less flashy than their 40’s counterparts.  I agree.  The fabric of thirties ties is not printed onto the fabric, but is woven.  Words such as “embroidered”, “weave”, “brocade”, and “jacquard” are used to describe the complex patterns woven in subtle browns, yellows, reds, maroons, purples, and blacks and they give a person a sense of what the ties look and feel like.  Thirties ties are ornate without any hint of flash.  They do not stand out, instead blending in and providing a cohesive finishing look to an outfit.  You are right, Will, they are stunningly beautiful!